(no subject)
May. 11th, 2008 08:50 pmRecently I was approached by a new acquaintance who wanted to commission me for a number of portraits of her pet rabbits. I was glad to take it on as I really could use the money right now, but the manner in which she's discussed my compensation has me worried a bit.
She's informed me that the artist she had hired previously had raised their prices, so I guess she's assuming that since I'm an art student she'll get a better deal with me, which is probably true as I'm not a pro yet. She hasn't specifically told me how much she's willing to pay, but "assured" me that she thinks I'll find it quite generous.
I hadn't the heart (or guts) to tell her that wasn't quite the way it worked, and so I need to come up with a price list rather fast before this goes any further and we both walk away dissatisfied. I'm not quite sure what she's thinking to pay me, but I hope she doesn't think a detailed, realistic charcoal and/or painting portraits will be any less then $50 a pop, if not more.
We haven't worked out the full details yet, she hasn't even decided on the medium. All she's really told me is that she wants them smaller since it will be a series, but big enough to be framed. So now I have to look up canvas sizes and decide what to offer her.
I realize that's all rather vague, I'm pretty inexperienced with this, so I was hoping you all could share some guidelines on how to price traditional media? I fear that after factoring in art expenses, gas money (she wants me to meet up with her and see the rabbits in person, which is reasonable and understandable, but potentially expensive), and work fee, that it might add up to being something more then she is prepared to pay, and I want to let her know now before this gets any further.
She's informed me that the artist she had hired previously had raised their prices, so I guess she's assuming that since I'm an art student she'll get a better deal with me, which is probably true as I'm not a pro yet. She hasn't specifically told me how much she's willing to pay, but "assured" me that she thinks I'll find it quite generous.
I hadn't the heart (or guts) to tell her that wasn't quite the way it worked, and so I need to come up with a price list rather fast before this goes any further and we both walk away dissatisfied. I'm not quite sure what she's thinking to pay me, but I hope she doesn't think a detailed, realistic charcoal and/or painting portraits will be any less then $50 a pop, if not more.
We haven't worked out the full details yet, she hasn't even decided on the medium. All she's really told me is that she wants them smaller since it will be a series, but big enough to be framed. So now I have to look up canvas sizes and decide what to offer her.
I realize that's all rather vague, I'm pretty inexperienced with this, so I was hoping you all could share some guidelines on how to price traditional media? I fear that after factoring in art expenses, gas money (she wants me to meet up with her and see the rabbits in person, which is reasonable and understandable, but potentially expensive), and work fee, that it might add up to being something more then she is prepared to pay, and I want to let her know now before this gets any further.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 01:43 am (UTC)I don't know if you've been involved in the furry fandom much, but those prices most fandom artists sell their services at are hardly realistic.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 02:10 am (UTC)Don't let the fact that you're a student make her think she can get away with charging you peanuts. From the way it was phrased, that she: "'assured' [you] that [you will] find it quite generous" ...leads me to believe she thinks she'll be able to short-change you because you're a student and 'obviously' won't know any better.
It's a common stigma among students. Now while as students we're obviously not 'experts' or 'professionals' that doesn't mean we deserve to be treated as slaves. $15-20/hour is the minimum you want to go for. Now if you want to really pack in the hours, include the time you spent going to her house and possibly getting photos of the rabbits. That depends on what you feel you should charge for. Definitely charge for the gas mileage.
For framing sizes, the smallest you'd want to go is 4x6, imo. That depends on how many she wants you draw. If it's less than 3, or less than 5.. maybe scale it up to 8x10. 8x10 is a very standard size and easy to frame.
How you charge is really up to you. (Be it by the hour or a flat rate.) As a suggestion, I'd say $15/hour for black and white media, and $20 for color media. Then you can figure out how long it takes you (on average) to complete an image of a certain size, in order to come up with an estimate.
The fandom really does for slave wages, but we do it for fun just as much as work. In this case, if she badgers you for being horribly expensive, you can tell her to politely take her business elsewhere. Artists deserve respect, and it's about time more people realize that they get what they pay for. I always get a laugh out of how some furries will bitch and moan like it's the end of the world when an artist raises their prices. You know what, fans? We need to eat something other than ramen.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 02:11 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 02:41 am (UTC)You are paying for QUALITY STUFF here. It's archival, it will survive a lot longer and protect your art a lot better than that shitty stuff on our shelves. (Which you still bitch is too much.)
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 03:14 am (UTC)While I embrace the idea of art being affordable for everyone, the public needs to get some education that it's NOT easy, and deserves to be paid for just like groceries and your fancy-schmancy ipods.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 03:18 am (UTC)CUSTOM art is another story entirely!
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 12:22 pm (UTC)I had a lady come in with a picture that was something odd like 15x18 or something like that. It was a print she had bought around here and she wanted it framed cheap, cheap, cheap! So I told her she could trim it to fit into a frame. Sold her a frame and everything, went to trim it ... oh no, she preferred that silver one on sale for the same price! *sighs*
And the silver one? It was 16x20, but she didn't want a mat or anything, so I slipped it in for her and you could see a bunch of the backing like I said you would, but apparently it was BEAUTIFUL!
Best part ... all of this was for a gift for someone.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 04:26 am (UTC)And from a horrible camera sales person perspective, telling people a higher price before the sale price makes them feel better about buying it.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 12:34 pm (UTC)The glass does make a big difference in the price, but I always point out how good this glass will make your art look, particularly after a mat or two. The cheap glass off the shelf doesn't have UV protection so your art will fade. ALL of the "behind the counter" type stuff is UV protective and our standard glass is the more expensive, but it's the best quality out there.
We offer three glasses. Masterpiece, Clear and Reflect something or other. Masterpiece is the best option for something like a shadowbox or triple matting, when your art is farther away. Reason for that being that the other ones are actually sort of grooved to keep down glare, but it blurs your details when you pull away from the glass in the case of shadowboxes and triple matting. I've actually seen this myself. I had some of the cheap stuff to cut and when I went to lay it on the table for a moment, the image got crisper as I got closer to the writing on the paper I was laying it on.
If you decide to put art straight in without any matting, it's a good idea to pick up a package of framer's tape if you can find it. I don't actually recall seeing any of it sold in my store. (I work in Michaels. :P) It's a silvery tape, made of aluminum. It's REALLY sticky, so be careful. You line the INNER part of your frame, where the art will touch the frame. That'll keep any chemicals used in treating the wood from leeching into the art and harming it.
Mostly the big deal about the frames themselves and their price is that you ARE getting a "one-of-a-kind" that needs to be hand built, but the wood is still of the highest quality and the selection is much better compared to stuff on the floor. However, some of the floor frames can be cooler, I'll admit. :P I can't make oval frames or the kind of collage frames where you have a bunch of frames attached together, not just a collage cut mat (I can do that).
A hint? Metal is usually cheaper, but may not always hold together very tightly at the corners, though we try. That can be covered up with some of the corners we sell at the counter, too. Also, for wood, plainer, flatter is usually cheaper. If you want something fancy looking, there's a faux leather wood frame that's one of the cheaper ones that people like for it's professional look.
Hope that helps. :3
no subject
Date: 2008-05-14 01:20 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 04:05 am (UTC)Seriously though, I have no idea how to price art either and I think it should be something every art school should teach (I haven't checked if mine does, but I will soon).
Standard common sizes for frames are 4x6, 5x7, 8x10, 11x14, 16x20, 20x30.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 12:35 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 02:37 am (UTC)Definitely charge for any extra things you have to do like driving out of your way to her.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 02:38 am (UTC)Somethings you'll need to factor in is labor, price of your materials, and in this case, travel expenses. If you're worried about her paying, ask her to pay half up front and the other half should be presented upon delivery of the art.
If she decides to screw you over, keep the deposit, and the works for your own gain: A portfolio, a gallery, or for sale. Some flower shops, cafe's or office buildings might buy them from you.
Good luck!
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 03:26 am (UTC)Unless she plans to pay you in the thousands and the last person was demanding something astronomical, 'generous' is a rather... condescending word.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 03:35 am (UTC)I would also try to determine for yourself a few other things that other artists all have headaches about later on.
Determine ahead of time how many revisions you'll allow, make this VERY CLEAR to her, give it to her in writing and have her sign it if you have to.
Sometimes you even have to make it clear just what the commission is for, such as medium and how many pieces. Make sure she knowns she can't just change her mind and expect not to pay for it.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 04:46 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 04:53 am (UTC)And a paper contract is your best friend.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 06:35 am (UTC)You're not a beggar she's throwing change at, don't let her treat you as such.
If she doesn't think what you can do is difficult, she's welcome to pick up pencil and paper anytime and do it herself.
art service pricing
Date: 2008-05-13 07:45 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-05-13 12:21 pm (UTC)I think everyones already said what I would on wages, but most important is that you get a contract up front and make sure reproduction rights are specified in there. If she wants the copyrights it costs more.
Don't do any work unless a price is agreed upon in writing, a contract made and you have some sort of materials deposit.
no subject
Date: 2008-05-14 01:41 pm (UTC)If you do it at an hourly rate, I would be sure to record everything that you do for her, including driving, buying supplies, framing etc, at an hourly rate, and write down the price. Then organizing it all on an invoice when you are done. That way if she asks you why it was so much, then you have proof that you were working for all those hours. Don't be afraid to stick up for all the hard work you put into it.